In front of me I see a pattern of charcoal gray with dark areas turning the color of mold on a peeling tan stucco wall, while two yellow and orange towels hang out to dry. In the background, there are rocks and stone walls from a castle. I walk up the narrow grey stone-covered street towards Casa do Prego. It’s closed, like most restaurants at this time, a week before Christmas.

I’m in Sintra. Today is good, I’ve only just arrived but my Jet Lag isn’t bad.